Not climbing physics, but what do climbers think? (Beverly, 2005)

Beverly conducted an online survey of climbers in 2005, and found some really interesting responses to 28 questions from 407 climbers. (Climbing Nerd Level 0)

Did you know that...

• 73% expect their belay device to hold fall factor 2 events (see separate blog entry)
• 71% have had some formal climbing training
• Only 25% believed that ice screws should be placed angled 10 to 20 degrees down from perpendicular to the ice (31% said up and 16% said straight) (see separte blog entry)
• 50% of climbers have taken <10>
• Only 9% of climbers have taken falls with a fall factor >1.5, but 20% have witnessed other climbers taking FF1.5-2 (so who are they?)
• Only 24% of respondents had a piece of pro fail during a fall, so 76% have not had pro fail
• 51% had been hit by rockfall while climbing
• 18% report climbing weights >190 lbs, which means those standard tests for gear strength don't necessarily apply
• 41% had witnessed a climbing accident where bones were broken from a fall
• 17% had needed assistance or rescue from a climbing accident

Here's something interesting. In response to the question, what's the greatest distance you have fallen on a rope outside...

• 32% had fallen <10>
• 31% had fallen 10 to 20 ft
• 17% had fallen 20 to 30 ft
• only 20% had fallen over 30 ft

Median number of days climbing per year...

• 24 in a gym
• 12 sport climbing
• 10 multi-pitch trad climbing

So who are these climbers?

• 34% belong to a local climbing club
• 29% belong to a mountain search and rescue organization
• 19% belong to the Access Fund
• 29% don't belong to any of these

Link to the report summary (WhatClimbersThink.pdf): http://www.sendmefile.com/00547713