Dr. Ron Farmer, prompted by Federation Mountain Rescue (European?) tested the relative performance of four knots. In decreasing order of performance were the autoblock, Bachmann, prusik, and klemheist, tested using both 6mm and 7mm cord, for backing up a rappel.
Link to article:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/General/A_scientific_study_of_common_friction_knots._273.html
NOTE: abseil = rappel
Saturday, March 29, 2008
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