Adventure #2 - Cross Country Ski up and down Amabilis Mountain - January 2, 2016

After another cold night in the Puget Lowland, we took advantage of exceptional snow conditions for a cross-country ski up and down Amabilis Mountain. Last year’s worst snowpack in recorded history reminds us that we should all “do it now” because you just don’t know…

The parking lot at Cabin Creek was not nearly as crowded as I expected, but there were still plenty of people decked out in their Nordic finest. But as soon as we turned right to head uphill, we left the crowds behind. Most people just don’t bother skiing uphill 2100 ft of elevation gain so they can ski downhill 2100 ft again. The 10-mile round trip probably doesn’t appeal to everyone either.

One guy passed us and asked if our skis were for telemarking. Yes, the skis are capable of that. The bodies, and more specifically the knees, do not telemark. These metal edges are for slowing my descent in snowplow position. My downhill skiing skills could best be described as “baby-giraffe-learning-to-walk,” but I like going uphill. It’s weird, I know.

We passed several newly downed trees across the trail that would have been pretty easy to see in time coming downhill, but by the time we returned some industrious folks with a chainsaw had made short work of one 18-inch diameter fir. Thanks trail maintenance crew!

The snow was in the best groomed condition I’ve ever found on Amabilis, and a far cry from the blue ice, bruises-in-the-making that can sometimes occur in the finicky Snoqualmie corridor. Not this year though – packed power with tracks for the skinny skis and not a bit of ice.

Clouds surrounded us down low, but as we crested the ridge around 4000 ft, the clouds dropped away and revealed the amazing views across Kachess Lake to Mount Daniel in the distance. Sweeping west we could pick out Bears Breast and Lemah Mountain as well. Looking right into the sun at Rainier revealed the vast amount of snow blowing from its highest points. I was glad Amabilis maxed out at 4550 ft and not 14,410 ft!

A few other skiers and snowshoers shared the views with us. Most of them smiled. A few gruff folks just stared as we said hello – maybe we had snotsicles? Every branch and needle seemed to glitter with faceted crystals that grew into diamonds over the past night or two. One benefit to the high-moisture Cascade Concrete snow – it sticks to the trees and sags into fantastical shapes of frosted cakes!

On the way down, I slowly lost feeling in different fingers and toes cruising down the groomed trail. After not skiing last year because of the poor snowpack, my muscles were filling with lactic acid on the climb. But at least climbing kept the blood pumping to all digits! Next time I need a balaclava to keep my nose from freezing, too. And maybe some more squats and lunges at the Y….

After about 30 minutes of cruising, snowplowing, and a few surprise balance checks by the baby giraffe, we were back at the trailhead and ready to rewarm the toes.

Adventure #: 2

Activity: Cross country ski

Date: January 2, 2016

Friends: Jim

#1 of 50 Adventures with 50 Friends in 50 Days – Polar Bear Plunge in Puget Sound on January 1!

“Exhilarating” is not the word I thought I would use to describe today’s Polar Bear Plunge into Puget Sound right here in Tacoma, WA. I thought it would be “brrr” or “tcktcktck,” the sound my teeth would make as they clattered together. But no, “exhilarating” far better describes the complete feeling.

Jane and Jay tried to get us to do it last year but we thought “no way” after Jim and I narrowly survived a lung-sucking dip in the Atlantic Ocean one November about 20 years ago. Ellen and Paul brought up Tacoma’s Polar Bear Plunge at Point Defiance a few weeks ago, and of course Jane and Jay were game. But then I made my list of 50 Adventures with 50 Friends in 50 Days and found I couldn’t leave the Polar Bear Plunge off the list.

The overnight temperature hit 23°F. The high was to be 39°F. Eventually. The announcer tried to explain how much warmer the 52°F water was than the 37°F air. Uh, no, it does not work that way. I steeled myself with the recollection of learning scuba diving and doing my check out dives in Puget Sound. In January. Brrr. Tcktcktck. If a few years ago you drove down Ruston Way and saw a really big running penguin from Point Defiance Zoo and Aquarium, that was me trying to stay warm in two layers of 7-mm wetsuit. The air temperature was 44°F and the water was 48°F. Brrr. Tcktcktck.

Mindy and Jim, with mountaineering puffies and swimsuits

We met up with Ellen and Paul dressed in our high-altitude mountaineering down jackets. I chose a Heat Miser wig to evoke warmth, with my Hello Kitty kid’s backpack for comfort. Jim went with a Hawaiian shirt and Mardi Gras beads. Jane and Jay came screaming into the pack during the countdown … 3! 2! 1!

I remember drawing in a deep breath before I jumped just in case my lungs froze up. I wanted to start full. Jumping off the dock on a brilliantly sunny day surrounded by friends and screaming Tacomans – what a blast! The landing was surprisingly soft, but I knew not to linger. I tried swimming with one arm so I could record the mayhem around me. Jim zipped on past me, touched the bottom of the boat ramp fast, and hauled himself out.

It took me a few more one-armed strokes, and I’m pretty sure I was screaming. I expected the near-freezing air to be bracing but it was weirdly warm. Someone with a big camera asked me how it felt and I think words came without gasping. I’m really not sure. We joined up with the whole crew after getting separated in the water, plus Jane and Jay made a few more jumps. Mark and Dee (chickens…) showed up to watch the spectacle in warm, dry clothes. Time to warm up and have New Year’s Day dinner!

Adventure #: 1

Activity: Polar bear swimming

Date: January 1, 2016

Friends: Jim, Jane, Jay, Ellen, Paul

Work Party at the Preserve -- Sunday, September 16

We have a bunch of activities that we could use help on. Please email Mindy Roberts (jefacita@gmail.com) if you can help so we know to look for you.

Where: Kitsap Rhododendron Preserve,  Seabeck Highway, Bremerton. Park at the blue house (closest address for Mapquest/Google is 3025 Seabeck Highway) or the Forest Theater parking lot.

When: meet at the top of the driveway to Hidden Valley, near the Kitsap Cabin, at 10 am. If you come late, please walk down the driveway and ask for Mindy.  We'll work until about 4 pm, or earlier depending on energy levels and progress.

What to bring: Work clothes, leather gloves, boots, snacks, water, sunscreen, and any tools you have.

Tools we could use: hand clippers, shears, handsaw, pick, shovel

Bring yourself and friends and family -- all are welcome!  We'll walk out to the Big Tree as well so you will get a chance to enjoy the Kitsap Rhododendron Preserve as well as donate your labor.  And we'll say thank you with some Seabeck Pizza around lunch.

Thanks in advance,
The Mountaineers Foundation

Mt. Olympus -- piece of cake

The forecast was great as we left the Hoh ranger station, though we expected some atmospheric instability the second night.  We had really worked on minimizing pack weight and taking the lightest gear possible given that we had to walk almost 20 miles just to get to the Blue Glacier on Mt. Olympus.

The weather was warm and bugs not so bad as we were walking.  Light hikers were way better than mountaineering boots, but blisters still got to one of the climbers.

Our first night we camped about 10 miles in at the gravel bar near the Olympus Guard Station -- lots of deer and one nursing fawn wandered around, not too concerned about us.  Optimistically, I left the Megamid off of the Megabug hoping to watch the stars that night.  What a surprise when the first flash of lightning illuminated the camp at 12:30.  More lightning convinced me to get up and put the Megamid on, and as the rain began I realized our packs were out, so another scramble got them inside the tent.

Bummer.  So much for a carefree weather forecast in the Olympics.

The next day we were supposed to haul to the Snow Dome.  My thinking was that it would maximize our summit options -- either day 2, any time on day 3, or even early on day 4.  Not a good idea.  I don't recommend this at all -- it would have really wasted the group and jeopardized a summit -- future teams, stick with Glacier Meadows.

The lightning, thunder, and rain continued as we walked to Elk Lake.  We met the ranger, who had been up at Glacier Meadows and watched lightning hit each of the summits on Olympus.  He warned of the same increasing instability that night.  We decided to stop at Elk Lake for lunch and discuss our options.

The Elk Lake shelter was occupied by some pretty glum guided climbers who had been chased off by lightning.  Let's describe them as "not happy."  They did make some room for us as we discussed our chances.  Eric:  "No chance of success."  Mindy:  "Two chances: slim and none."  We talked about retreating and climbing something else, but the students opted to continue as far as we could safely travel hoping to at least get a glimpse of the elusive Blue Glacier and summit of Mt. Olympus.

So that left the afternoon free, and when goal-oriented people are forced into a confined space, strange things happen to the psyche (that means you guys, Sinister/Dome 2010 climbers).  Eric, an avid caver, threw out setting up a zipline.  Amber works part time at the ropes challenge course in Woodinville.  We have ropes, harness, pulleys, helmets, and big trees -- ZIPLINE!

"Zip" may have been optimistic, as Brad "fatty britches" found out (he's actually really thin).  (Eric and I made him put on a helmet -- safety first.)  The 30-ft span through camp wasn't high enough to avoid bottoming out at the mid point of the rope.  Oh yeah, ziplines use static line....  We all gave it a shot.  Well, except Eric who was too busy laughing.

We escalated from there, eyeing the 100 ft span across the gully below camp.  We set that one up, too.  Even though there was no chance of hitting a tree, we still padded with a sleeping pad, mostly for aesthetics (safety first).  Again, Brad was the guinea pig.  Because we had the anchor so high off the ground near camp, we made him prusik up to where he could get his pulley on the line (again, wearing a helmet -- safety first).  He launched first with a squeaky pulley, slowed near the middle, then hauled himself to the other side over the brush.  Then we realized it was easier to get the pulley on near the other end.

Richard, Amber, Eric, and I all tried it out.  Amber had the best style with her five-toe footwork, but Eric got the best speed.  I decided I needed to oil my pulley.

We got up at 3 am and left at 4:15 from Elk Lake after a night surprisingly free of thunder, lightning, or rain.  Unfortunately, Thomas' blisters were too bad to attempt, so six of us left with light packs since we were expecting an 18-hr day.  It was light out by the time we got to the infamous cable ladder -- how awkward is that?!  The "trail" is really narrow in places, and one bad step could lead to a huge tumble down steep slopes.  The streams were running pretty high, so we definitely had several adventurous crossings.

Several teams had already left Glacier Meadows.  We filled up on water then walked up to the moraine where we got our first view of the Blue Glacier and Mt. Olympus.  Words can't describe how spectacular it is.  Very different look from glaciated peaks in the Cascades.

The trail to the Blue Glacier left from the very southeast end of the moraine.  Lots of scree so had to be careful not to knock stuff down on each other.  We roped up on the snow, opting for crampons until they balled up.  Eric led across the Blue Glacier, and we spiraled southwest toward CalTech rocks.  A few crevasses are beginning to open, but they were easily avoided by staying toward the center of the glacier and being careful with route selection.

At 5700 ft on climbers' right on the Blue Glacier, we traversed north over flatter glacier terrain, then began our climb and zig zag on climbers right near the rocks up to 6400 ft at the top of the rocks.  All on firm but not icy snow.  We took a break, then ascended up to 6600 ft where the angle eases off on the Snow Dome.

There were only a few cracks open where the Snow Dome transitions to the top of the icefall.  We took a break at 6920' with full views of the summit, false summit, and five fingers.  Clouds began gathering near the summit, and about 20 miles south was an enormous thunderhead.  I expected to have to turn around any minute and dash to the rocks below Snow Dome where the terrain was more protective against lightning.

We traversed southeast to Crystal Pass (7300 ft) and passed above the bergschrund.  The slope was moderate and snow was good, and no pickets were needed.  Through Crystal Pass was uneventful, but we had to climb about 10 ft of maybe 70-degree snow to reach the other arm of the Blue Glacier.  We were in a reflective bowl, and it was just baking there.  We took a break a little higher when both rope teams got in a little breeze.

We had seen no sign of other climbers except just before the Snow Dome, but then that team of 4 came through Crystal Pass.  We climbed to the ridge line and over the false summit.  We coiled ropes to walk down the loose scree and over about 10 ft of hard ice to more snow.  We stretched back out in the col to climb the final snow slope.  It was steeper than a lot of intermediate ice climbs, but everyone just powered up it with no problem.  I did place a picket near the top plus used an ice axe anchor to bring up the team.

We had planned to do the 3rd class ramp around the east side of the summit block, but the snow was higher than the takeoff for this route.  Instead, we climbed the 5.4ish north face. There was a 5-ft wide moat but a snow/ice bridge about a foot wide that made for an easy step across.  The climbing is easier on climbers right but the pro placements are better on climbers left.  I had a link cam, two tri cams, and 5 medium nuts, which was just right for the summit block.  There are a few committing moves but then the angle backs off and the rappel anchor is reached.

Brad was next up, and was efficient at cleaning pro.  He belayed Richard using a redirect while I scoped out the summit block.  Magnificent views!  I knew it was my only chance to take a deep breath and really enjoy, so I did albeit too briefly.  Richard climbs too fast.  The summit register was full, so I found the July 2010 page from some friends and scribbled my name there with the date.

Brad belayed Christopher while Brad and I scrambled to the summit.  It's ok terrain but a slip would be really bad up there.  He got the summit to himself while we brought up Amber "the gazzelle" and Eric.

I rigged the rappel while the others enjoyed the summit. The other team came up on the ramps, claiming to be Canadians but the accent was eastern European.  A jet buzzed the summit and circled twice -- I thought it was an F-22 but the "Canadian" corrected me with F18.  I asked if they had Interpol records, hoping the answer was no.
 

We let them rap our lines, then we reluctantly left after an hour on the summit.  Even though that made for an even longer day, life priorities stipulate enjoying the views after hauling our cookies that far in and that high up.  We roped back up, downclimbed the steep pitch clipping the picket on descent, then climbed up and over the false summit.

We carefully descended through Crystal Pass, and the snow began to harden up so we kept the crampons on.  Everyone did great descending the steep snow slopes off the Snow Dome.  I was able to retrace our uproute thanks to my GaiaGPS smartphone app, avoiding a few crevasses.    We had one more extended break on the Blue Glacier, taking in the amazing views once again.  Then back to the moraine where we unroped, scrambled back up, and drank the rest of our team water.

We made it back to Glacier Meadows where we pumped water and ate pretty much all the food in our packs.  Two guys looked at me, smiling, and I thought maybe they knew me.  But then I realized I was wearing a pink ruffled polyester shirt, also known as the Best Glacier Shirt Ever, and had zinc oxide sunblock that made me look like a clown.  Whatever.

The team was pretty pooped when we got back to Elk Lake around 10:30 pm.  Fortunately, everyone stayed awake to eat dinner before collapsing into a deep sleep for the night.

We got a late start, arising around 8 am, but that's the best we could do after summit day.  It made for a very long descent to the Hoh trailhead.  Three guys ran out of food, and Amber graciously shared what she had.  Then Amber's blisters really kicked in, and they returned the favor by carrying some of her load.  Teamwork rocks!

Mist and fog shrouded the views on the way out, only appropriate since it's a rain forest after all.  We were so relieved that we didn't have to deal with thunder, lightning, or rain on summit day, though.  What a remarkable weather window to be in a remarkable place!

The parking lot never looked so good.  We stopped for pizza at Forks -- we were so stiff already that we looked like a bunch of zombies leaving the cars to attack the vampires of Forks!

Unfortunately our team was missing two people -- Jim's arthritic knee flared up the week before and Heather rolled her ankle the previous weekend.  They would have made the climb even better!

Climbing Mt. Olympus requires a wide variety of alpine skills -- trekking, glacier route finding, steep snow, rock climbing, and scrambling.  What a great experience climb!  It takes everything you have, leaving you exhausted.  But we decided that if anyone asks us if it was hard that we had a uniform answer -- "piece of cake."

Joining slings together...

Just came across a good write up on some unofficial testing done by Black Diamond on breaking strengths when joining two slings directly:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb-qclab/qclab/qc-lab-connecting-two-slings-together/

Bottom line is joining with a carabiner is better because all sling-to-sling joins broke at less than the rated strength of the sling material. Biggest decrease in strength was using skinny material with fatter nylon-- cuts right through the nylon. So keep the sizes about equal, and consider learning a strop bend or climbers hitch.

Rainier (Emmons) Women's Climb (July 7-10, 2010)

An amazing trip with remarkable women under spectacular conditions! Sally hatched the plan last winter, gathering a group of 7 women from Washington, Oregon, and New Jersey. Meanwhile, two photojournalist Friends of Mike talked about heading up Rainier as well and Mike connected the groups. We met for the first time within a week of the climb.

Janet, Mindy, Risa, Lynn, Nancy, Sally, Lisa, Bonnie, and Melina.

We walked up the White River valley trail to Glacier Basin, then followed snow up the Interglacier. The weather had literally just broken from its winterish pattern two days before, so the entire mountain was covered in fresh snow in perfect conditions. The slog up the Interglacier was hotter than ever, as the Lowlands sweltered in 80- to 90-degree heat.

Bonnie and Risa working their way up the White River valley "trail."

We had a late arrival at Camp Schurman and probably overwhelmed the hut filled with the park's ranger higher-ups. They were kind enough to give us first dibs on the stove and waited patiently for us to finish. If they had business to do, I doubt they could hear themselves over our noise.

Camp Schurman with rangers

Unfortunately, Risa came down with altitude sickness and spent the next two days in her tent. Yet somehow she had a smile on her face when she made it to an upright stance. Meanwhile, we relaxed and stayed fed and did a little basic mountaineering refresher on the slopes above Schurman-- pickets, deadman anchors, ice axe arrest, walking in crampons, glacier travel. Bonnie decided not to climb the following day, a second unfortunate event. We went to bed early even though the International Space Station was making a pass as the brightest light in the sky a little later.

The temperatures stayed pretty toasty, especially in our 3-person tents. 3:00 am came way too soon. It was such a treat to have the stove available in the Schurman hut for coffee and breakfast burritos! We finally took off just before 5:00 am as the light was bright enough to lose the headlamps. Janet tied in with Eric and River to leapfrog our two ropes. Sally led off with Nancy and Lynn followed by Lisa and I as the second rope team. I'm not sure how Janet found the energy, but after a few leaps we decided to just walk together. Sunrise high on a mountain is my favorite place and time of day, and this climb didn't disappoint.

Janet working up the Emmons route just following Sunrise.

Lisa on the Emmons route, with Camp Schurman in the background.

We kept a pretty good pace and only took one snack/potty break around 12,000 ft. The snow conditions were perfect-- hard snow for crampons. There was no sign of Mike and Melina who had left Schurman after us.

Sally, Nancy, and Lynn on the Emmons route.

Crossing the bergschrund was the easiest I had ever found it, and River said these were the best conditions he had seen on the route. What a treat! And great luck to have a late-season snowy May/June and the first sign of sunny weather just days prior. There were a few steeper steps and sastrugi right above the schrund but still phenomenal conditions. Finally the summit crater starting getting closer and closer, and we crested out a little after 10:00 am. Nice to be off the glacier for the last bits, so we dropped the rope and headed off for the true summit. Which we had entirely to ourselves-- not another soul in sight! We summited around 10:25 and spent well over an hour on the summit celebrating and savoring the view. So much happened so fast that we just couldn't aborb it all! Melina and Mike caught up to us, completing the extended group.

Mindy, Lisa, Sally, Nancy, and Lynn

Melina, Mindy, Nancy, Sally, Janet, Lynn, and Lisa, arranged to avoid clashing green jackets...

And that somehow led to a can-can dance...

A note for Risa and Bonnie

The only way to improve that moment would have been for Risa and Bonnie to join us on the summit. I sent them an M&M message (then dutifully collected the bits and pieces, which left an abstract scene best described as Clown Faceplants on Summit).

Mike in ninja black

Janet with her rope team of River (left) and Eric (right)

It was a pretty luxurious stay on the summit and it was hard to believe no one else was there on such a gorgeous day. We could see Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Baker, Glacier Peak, the Olympics, and Puget Sound-- finally! This was my 4th summit but the first time I had such a view and the time to just look around. Grudgingly we left the summit around 11:30, roped up, and headed off. Janet resumed her photojournalist role and River and Eric staked her out in the bergschrund.

Mike/Melina and Lisa/Mindy walk past Janet's roost in the bergschrund

Conditions were still amazingly good, which made for my fastest descent-- 2 hours back to Schurman! It was pretty toasty as we got to 11,000 ft and began to posthole. Coming down the Emmons, Schurman looks so small for so long that it sort of sneaks up you right before you get there. We had one small crevasse to step across and a few other very small cracks, but that was it. Sally wisely scheduled a third night at Camp Schurman. We reunited with Bonnie and Risa and spent the rest of the day relaxing, trying not to get sunburned, and chatting with people at Schurman.

Lisa, Nancy, Lynn, and Sally relaxing at Camp Schurman

A group from Colorado was in camp, and we got to talk with Vivian Underhill, the granddaughter of Miriam (and Robert) Underhill, a pioneering mountaineer of the early 1900s. Meanwhile, Bonnie made an attempt to reach the International Space Station during a few minutes when it was overhead. She made several attempts and we finally heard the ISS commander send greetings to someone else. The people around us were trying to figure out if she was really trying to call the Space Station or just crazy. No, we assured them, she's a retired astronaut. Sort of a new version of Blue Tooth Or Crazy.

Fortunately, Risa was feeling better though still not up to par the next morning, but she walked out on her own anyway. Sally and I roped up with Bonnie and Risa while Nancy, Lisa, and Lynn climbed up the Prow and met us on the Interglacier. My tentmates, Janet and Melina, had left the night before leaving way too much room in the tent, so I grabbed a bunk in Camp Schurman. When else would I have a chance to be there?

Sally, Bonnie, and Risa head down the Emmons Glacier below Camp Schurman.

Glissading the Interglacier was outstanding! How gratifying to zip down something that took hours to climb. And we stayed on the snow right down to Glacier Basin, avoiding the moraine footpath entirely. We took another break at Glacier Basin before heading down the trail. But Bonnie had another treat for us. Right before we got to the trailhead she had another window of opportunity to contact the Space Station. She reached it on the second try, and Commander Doug Wheelock sent greetings to Bonnie and the team on Mt. Rainier. How cool is that! We got a messsage from space!

Lisa and Bonnie (with Doug Wheelock by radio), reaching the International Space Station from a gravel bar in the White River valley

Tired but hungry, we headed off for pizza before heading off to our various corners. I really enjoyed meeting the other climbers and hearing their personal stories. Each has taken on remarkably complicated tasks and pulled it all off with a spirit of adventure. Thanks to all of you!

Glacier Peak Climb (July 15-18, 2010)

A tree gains a toehold on a moraine at 6700 ft (due east of pt 6787)

Scott, Ian, Chad and I set off for Glacier Peak, taking advantage of the last summer with limited access (road repairs in progress). Looking forward to about 35 miles round trip and 10,000 ft elevation gain, we left the N Fork Sauk River trailhead with our brand new Target sleeping bag (long story) but otherwise weighing in at about 40-45 lb packs. Minor bugs on the walk in, but the annoyance was nothing in comparison to the unending switchbacks (OK, 30). The view near White Pass got close to a Sound of Music moment, but the wildflower peak was still a few weeks off. We stood strong against a false charge from a marmot-- pretty pungent aroma. We decided to camp at White Pass and conscientiously excavated a snow platform for the Megamid. Far enough to the southeast on the ridge we actually had a view of Glacier Peak.

View of White Mountain (Left) and Glacier Peak (center) from SE end of White Pass.

Ian at 6500-ft saddle with Glacier Peak in the background

We got a lazy start on Day 2 and began the long traverse to the 6500-ft saddle on the ridge to the east of White Mountain. We stayed high and followed the previous boot path across steep snow slopes for the most part, but we also crossed a few heather ridges. The view from the col was incredible, and just got better. We dropped down steep snow slopes and kept traversing east and north to try to hold our elevation, but it may have been faster to drop to the basin and walk on the flats. We didn't need crampons and the snow was perfect for kicking steps. The Whitechuck Glacier on the USGS maps and in the Beckey guide is no longer, sadly. We climbed up to Glacier Gap for a sweet campsite with ready-made rock walls and a meltwater stream and a killer view. Calm winds overnight and pretty warm.

Glacier Gap camp

We rose at 3:30 am and took off a few minutes before 5 am, climbing up to the pass above camp on hard snow with crampons on and ice axes out. We traveled north up the Gerdine Ridge to about elevation 8400 ft, where we roped up to traverse northeast across the Gerdine Glacier to the saddle with the Cool Glacier. There was evidence of a recent avalanche off southeast face of Disappointment Peak, and ample rocks littering the glacier so we didn't dally at the tempting rock right in the path of the rockfall.

View across the Gerdine Glacier below Disappointment Peak
As we ascended to the saddle, I noted a few spots where people either deeply postholed or punched through snow bridges on their way down, right where the large crevasses form mid summer at the Cool/Gerdine glacier junction. The Cool Glacier really only had a single obvious crevasse with snow bridge right before the Disappointment/Glacier col, so I skirted to the south, close to Disappointment Peak, and didn't even have to step across any crevasses. Pretty remarkable snow conditions, and a testament to the late-season snow.

Disappointment Peak/Glacier Peak col

At the col we unroped but kept crampons and ice axe for the steep snow climb up the wide gully that led to the summit. A faster group of 5 on one rope hit the col at the same time and they elected to climb the gully roped but placed no pro. Seeing visions of the Mt. Hood climbing accident from a few years back, where a roped team slip clotheslined a bunch of people climbing up, we waited until the team cleared the terrain above us (15 minutes is worth the peace of mind; the leader of that team asked me about it afterwards and was very receptive to new ideas). We kicked steps and remained unroped, thanks to a skilled team comfortable with snow travel. Snow conditions were absolutely ideal for crampons. At the top of the gully, we visited both bumps just to make sure, then basked in the sun.

Near the top of the summit gully, looking down on Gerdine Ridge

The views from the top of Glacier Peak must be the best in the Cascades. The peak is surrounded by mountains, and the fighter jets the previous day were the only hint of civilization. You can't see or hear anything other than mountains, snow, and wind. It's truly spectacular, and thanks to the light wind, we spent over 45 minutes up there taking pictures of Rainier, Baker, Shuksan, Sloan, and all the other peaks you can see.

Descending the Cool Glacier

I checked everyone's comfort level descending the upper gully, and considered setting up a fixed line for a pitch. But, they were a remarkably skilled group and we elected not to rope up. The snow was just beginning to soften, which made for good plunge stepping but with crampons on for security. At the Disappointment/Glacier col we took off crampons and donned ropes for the final glacier travel. Ian led down the Cool Glacier and uneventfully passed over the top crevasse. But, where the Cool Glacier dropped into the Gerdine, both Ian and I punched through snow bridges with a leg so worked our way cautiously to the Gerdine Glacier. We traveled quickly past the rockfall, including the beckoning sun platform rock where another group not-so-wisely paused, and the avalanche debris to reach the snow on the south Gerdine ridge. We unroped and wandered back to our Glacier Gap campsite.

After two hours rest, feeding, and watering, we decided to move camp back to White Pass to make the next day more pleasant. The snow was getting a little soft, but not too bad for the traverse past the area-formerly-known-as the Whitechuck Glacier. The final climb up steep snow to the 6500-ft saddle sapped the last of our energy. In two days, the snow had really melted off the traverse back to White Pass. We passed a NOLS group out for 30 days and for some reason they didn't have ice axes out (but were wearing helmets)-- is this an odd hazing ritual? It would have been a long slide.

Back at White Pass, people were occupying our beautiful snow platform so we dug another one. Though we tried to find a place out of the wind, our Megamid nearly succumbed in the middle of the night. I awoke to a flattened Megamid wall fwapping me in the nose. You could hear the wind getting a running start in the distance, followed by fwapfwapfwapfwapfwag. A few lulls suggested it could improve ... but it didn't. Our middle people slept well but Ian and I had had enough around 6 am.

The walk out wasn't so bad, and we lingered about an hour and a half at the N Fork Sauk River right at the base of the switchbacks. A few bugs were out but little blood was lost. We hit the trailhead at 2 pm and found some lunch back in civilization before the complete reentry.

A few blisters and a little warm at times, but good people, outstanding conditions, and a great trip!